Showing posts with label Ice climbing. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Ice climbing. Show all posts

Friday, January 15, 2010

BIG day out in the Devil's Kitchen (Cwm Idwal)

Sari leading The Curtain IV 4

Eddie on the South Gully IV 4***

Winter climbing in Devils Kitchen (Cwm Idwal)

Current Idwal (North Wales) conditions (14th Jan) are superb but melting fast!!!!! Very fast. So be quick! Most of the ice lines are being climbed and the super classic Devil's Appendix saw many ascents. The team Foundry; Eddie, Dan, Tim and I had a superb day - sunny skies, perfect alpine conditions and lots of fun. The South Gully IV 4***, The Screen IV 4 **, The Curtain IV 4 and The Ramp II* were climbed, and I nearly stayed over for a second day (to try) to climb the Devil's Appendix..... ah well, next time! ; )

Dan on The Screen IV 4 **

Big Day - Big Smile

Sunday, January 10, 2010

Mixtaa Englannissa

Yllätys, yllätys, mutta kotinurkintani Englannista löytyy ätä!! Ei siis ole tarvetta ajaa Skotlantiin asti vaan pienet treenit onnistuu kotoa! Veikattiin että vasen reuna olisi jotakin skotti 6 tai 7:kaa. Kuvassa Eddie kikkailee oikeaa reunaa, olisikohan myös jotain 6sta? Yläköydellä oli kiva kokeilla kauden ekoja reitteja. Mukavasti jalka nousi ja voisin uskaltaa jopa yrittää skotti 5:sta Skolannissa tänä vuonna!

Suprise, suprise, but we found some ice in Peak District!!! No need to drive to Scotland for bit of a training (well not this week anyway!!). Below Eddie is climbing right side of the waterfall which is probably Scottish 6. The left side was a great line too, somewhat harder. It was very nice to start out the season with some toproping. Next week North Wales?


Pienempikin putous kiivettiin. Oikea reuna oli oikein mukava pikku reitti!

Saturday, January 2, 2010

Lapin Taikaa - Magical Lapland


"Kaamos (polar nights), the cozyness of Piippukota, old and new friends, salmiakki and licorice , -22 celsius and quietness"

"In the magical Lapland, there is a wicked place of Korouoma Canyon and Piippukota (a cozy northern cottage). It is rugged and grand, surrounded by old-growth forests, frozen waterfalls and cliffs. It is quiet and dark, with the occasional eagles gliding in the air."

Piippukota. Photo by Markus Siivola

I have just arrived home to Helsinki after five amazing days in Korouoma Canyon in Finnish Lapland. The frozen waterfalls of Ruskeavirta, Mammutti and Jaska Jokunen were climbed, whilst Revontuli and Sudenhammas was left for years (months) to come. There was blood, tears and laughter. Old friends was met and new friendships made. Adam lead his first water ice routes in waterfalls of Mammutti and Jaska Jokunen, and Dosentti lead "the route" of his life in Jaska. I learned to rescue myself with a fifi hook (rather than taking a big fall!) and with Finnish 'SISU' fought my way up a steep left side of the icewall of Mammutti and the big pillar of Jaska Jokunen.
Thanks guys and gals! I am looking forward the next year already!!


Jaska Jokunen

Jaska Jokunen
Dosentti and 'elämäni liidi'



MammuttiRuskeavirta - looking very steep this year!