Coire an Lochain - Cairngorm
Coire an Lochain - CairngormSecond week of February in Scotland was BEAUTIFUL! Snow (lots of it), big cornices, good routes and great ski touring, what more can you ask!!! Aviemore was buzzing and the sky was blue!
Last week was also all about challenges and learning about big routes. I climbed harder than I have ever climbed before (scottish grade 5/6), backed off several pitches (thanks Will for leading) and completely froze at least once..... But I am also quite impressed of the fact that I and Will made it to the hills 5 days out of the 6 we were in Scotland. My legs did hurt BADLY , and at the end I was pretty much DONE (headwise too) but we did it. Now I am totally knackered though...
On Monday I had real epic climbing the Message (4,6) in Coire an t'Sneachda in Cairngorm. The Message is a pretty steep and MIXED route (but very good belays) and I was really hoping not to get the crux pitch but no hope for that. After nearly 2 hours on the crux and nearly loosing my front tooth (the hex that I was resting on popped out and hit my face!!!), I down climbed and Will kindly finished the pitch. On the third pitch I managed to get our ropes stuck and at that time it was about 5pm when it gets dark!!!!. Many thanks to Stuart from Climb 365 for sorting our ropes in the end - I was completely done after trying to lead the crux!!! http://www.climb365.net/about-us.htm. And nothing better to finish the day than navigating in snow storm and pitch black darkness....
We had another big day in Creag Megaidh. We wanted to climb the classic ice line called Pumpkin but as it was busy, we chose an amazing gully line called South Post Direct (4,5). The ice was pretty amazing for Scotland and some of the route involved steep snow climbing with no gear. There I was trying to build belay on a 80 degree slope with no gear between me and the belayer and boy did I feel like having a little cry.... it was that scary. It was a brilliant climb but maybe not a good one for a first grade 5 ; )
Sunday - Patey's Route (4,5)
Monday - The Message (4,6)
Tuesday - Central Left Hand (1/2)
Wednesday - REST DAY
Thursday - South Post Direct (5,4) 400m
Friday - Fiacaill Ridge (1/2)
Recent Report for Scottish winter conditions is here:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=51697
Fiacaill Ridge in Corrie an t'Sneachda
Creag Megaidh
Creag Megaidh - South Post Direct (5,4)
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