The comfort factor of Indian Salwar Kameez

The salwar kameez is widely regarded as the most comfortable of all Indian garments. The variation in styles allows easy movement as well as versatility. Once the proper fabric for the suit is chosen, it is time for the artisan to display his handiwork. Hand worked fabrics are those which are embroidered or embellished using manual skills. Flawless hand embroidery requires a lot of dexterity and patience. India is famous for it’s regional styles of needlework and has numerous artisans all over the country who are experts in provincial embroidery work.

The most widely preferred of all Indian needlecraft is the renowned Lucknowi chikankari. Chikankari salwar kurtas are very popular because of their elegant style as well as the comfort factor. Chikankari is also practiced in Rampur and Agra, both of which are well known too. Chikankari work consists of delicate floral designs stitched onto fine cotton or muslin cloth. Other than chikankari, the hand painted designs and Jamdani weave of Faizabad is also quite admired.

Among the prominent embroidery styles of northern india, the Punjabi ‘phulkari’ is widely practiced. ‘Phulkari’ which means growing flowers, is practiced by Punjabi women and can trace its origins as far back as the Vedic ages. ‘Phulkari’ work is done using silk floss on ‘khadi’. The stitching is complicated as a single thread is used at a time and worked in various directions to achieve the light and shadow effect. Chope, ghunghat bagh, suber, darshan-dwaar and chamba are some of the common ‘phulkari’ styles.

Eastern India is famed for its Bengali ‘kantha’ stitch, especially on wedding sarees. The various styles of ‘kantha’ stitching include sujni kantha, archilata kantha, durjani kantha and rumal kantha. ‘Kantha’ stitch is basically running stitch cleverly sewn to resemble various motifs. The style of stitching varies from the simple style to the mat style, maze style and tessellation style. Neighbor Sikkim on the other hand is recognized for its leather appliqués.

Western India has its mirror work over colorful thread embroidery which is a specialty of the Rajasthani gypsies. Rajasthan is also famous for block printing, bandhini (tie and dye) and of course the intricate Jodhpuri jaali work. Coming to central India, the zari work of Indore and Bhopal are much appreciated.

Another kind of legendary Indian embroidery is the Aari or Zardosi embroidery. This variety of embroidery was introduced by the Mughals. ‘Aar’ which means needle is done on a wooden frame which keeps the cloth fixed and stretched out. The designs are copied onto the fabric and then thread is traced over the outline. This method is borrowed from the technique of cot making. It enables artisans the freedom to use both hands thus increasing speed and expertise. Once the designs are overlaid with thread, beads, sequins and gold or silver wires are used for further embellishment giving the finished product a rich look.

Indian needlework has always attracted connoisseurs from around the world with its distinctive style and the level of skill shown by artisans. The art of this embroidery are passed on from one generation to another and always leaves people awestruck at the beautiful designs.