After all my exams and projects in Sheffield, it was time to spend some quality time with my family in Helsinki, Finland. It was also time to discover the crags of southern Finland, and with Elisa, Mika and Tatu, I enjoyed good days of climbing in Kvarnby cliff, Jaanankallio and Rollarit. It was a great pleasure to climb the classic (easy) trad lines on these crags and I was amazed by the quality of sport routes. In the UK Peak District, most sports routes are HARD (7a and above) and it was really lovely to climb routes that are closer to my onsighting grade. I am a tradclimber folks!
In Kvarnby cliff (granit) in Kirkkonummi, I, Elisa and Mika climbed the easy classics of Murkkuhalkeama (HVS 5b), Pintahiki (6a) and Kiemura (VS 5a) to mention few and toproped the classics, Majavan Paluu (7) and Lepakkomiehen Frendi (7-) which are excellent crack climbs with any measures. I toproped both Majavan Paluu and Lepakkomiehen Frendi cleanly on my second go, but I recon it will be a few years until a dare to lead either of them.
In Jaanankallio (diorite) close to Hyvinkää I really enjoyed climbing Rev it up (VS 4c) and Invincta (HVS 5b). It was a close call that I didn't fall off on Invicta but I can proudly now claim an onsight. In addition, I toproped Wombatti (6c), which is probably one of the best sportroutes that I have climbed. I would love to return Jaanankallio to lead this route. Thanks Elisa for a fab day out!
Rollarit (gneiss), is the closest crag to Helsinki and very nice little climbing spot. In Rollarit I climbed the classic line of Rock Vandal (VS 4c) and had a good go with the Mantra (7a), the classic sport route of the crag. I hope to return to climb Spiderman (6-) very soon too.
It has been an excellent holiday in Helsinki with family, friends and good climbing! I also now realize how beneficial it would be to boulder/ climb hard sport as that is the only way to gain power that I am currently lacking. Many thanks to Elisa, Mika and Tatu for great company and good climbing! Also, many thanks for lending your gear as I didn't have my cams with me.
Kvarnby:
Sport, Walk, Trad VS 5a
Pintahiki F6a - really nice climbing! A good first 6a I think!
Kiemura 5c - a good one, I like the handtraverse!
Isidor F6a+ - very thin climbing at the crux.... brrrrr
Murkkuhalkeama HVS 5b - requires bit of a fight with the first move!
Heroes in Heaven F5+ - nice warm up!
Lepakkomiehen frendi E3 5c toprope - absolutely amazing line, this I like to lead one day!
Majavan paluu E5 6a toprope - again, absolutely amazing line, I would like to be able to lead this one day, undoubtful though! Crux feels hard, but not impossible for a shortie!
Jaanankallio:
Invicta HVS 5b - good route and my first finnish 6!
Vompatti F6c toprope - a lovely line that didn't feel too hard.
Rev It Up VS 4c- a great route, everyone should climb this one!
Rollarit:
Crying Finn VS 4b - nice little route!
Pingviini F6a+ - cool route with some tough moves
Rock Vandal VS 5a - really nice route with pleanty of gear
Mantra F7a toprope - pretty desperate crux
Sianlihan Orjat F6a+ toprope - really hard bouldery crux - struggled on it on a toprope!
Sari toproping Mantra (7a) in Rollarit. Very hard crux I think!
Sari leading Rock Vandal (VS 4c) in Rollarit. Very nice climbing and a true classic for sure!
Lepakkomies (E2 5c) follows the left side of the overhang. I didn't have guts to lead it this time, but maybe next year?
Elisa tackling with the Wombatti (6c) in Jaanankallio. Great line, great moves, I would love to lead this!
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